Castello Pavone, Ivrea - Piedmonte, Val d'Aosta Italy

Castello Pavone, Ivrea - Piedmonte, Val d'Aosta Italy

Courtyard of the Castello

A very brief visit to Castello di Pavone in the town of Ivrea on the outskirts between the Val D'Aosta,  and Piedmonte, Italy was worth every Euro. Lucky to have come in on the tail of two groups who vacated that very day and the weekend before Valentines, we had the place all to ourselves. The historic site has been lovingly restored and is dutifully maintained. You will find yourself immersed in an environment with most of the modern comforts you might desire and a nice dash of hardship to remind you how difficult it is to live in a castle, even today.

The courtyard

 The owner is the only one who has a vehicle in the upper portion of the grounds; all us low-lifers must park below the dwelling and climb a nice steep set of flagstone stairs to the outer wall where there is a door built into the rock (remember this when you pack your bags...).  :-)  You must ring the bell to enter and the door will then slowly open automatically. As it opens the view beyond comes alive and you descend into a short tunnel of brick terraces until you arrive to the front of the castle. They provide help when asked, to bring your bags up to the castle and then to your room and if you are not young and strong, take the offer because the stairs do not end here. :-) Getting to your room could add in quite a few more and every step is worth it in my opinion. The staff is wonderful, helpful and happy.

Stained glass window of the suite

We were welcomed to our Royal Suite Pavone with a glass of Prosecco and promptly reserved our table in the dinning room for dinner. Having dinned there months prior, we knew dinner was a must; the ambience is fabulous.

The suite had one window and three portholes, yes a dark room with the dark wood ceiling but so typical of these old structures it just makes the whole experience more of an adventure.  There are no elevators here and I wondered how they received deliveries in the winter and during the rainy season because there is the old original river rock stone drive and I suppose their suppliers have a very difficult time during inclement weather (horribly slippery). Be sure to stop in the bar (the armory) and have a glass of wine and some outstanding appetizers.

Sunrise from the one window of the suite.

The dinning room is an experience and it is not just one room but made up of various adjoining rooms; one seems to be a little celestial room, up a few stairs off to the left of the fireplace in the main room and then to the right there is another room but I did not get a chance to see that one. The tables are large and round and stately; just perfect for a romantic and leisurely repast. The wine cellar is well stocked so you can accompany their excellent food with an excellent wine. If you stay more than one day, I suggest requesting to have your bottle of outstanding red wine opened before dinner to let it air. Such a shame to not order one of these wines because you do not have time to let it breathe properly. We suggested they try out a Vinturi and see for themselves how this could give them a greater amount of flexibility with client satisfaction (and sell more of those fabulous reds).

We did not have the chance to taste breakfast but I am convinced it was nothing shy of their standard. After a late dinner, there just was not room for breakfast even though they called at 10 to ask if we would like them to bring breakfast to our room. Check out is at 11 so if you would like a slower morning, I would ask them if they do late checkouts; even at a price it is worth it. The spell you fall into while there is  a shame to break so abruptly in the morning with the hassle of getting breakfast, packing and hauling your things back to the car. I was truly amazed watching these young waiters whisk platters of food up staircases to well hidden meeting rooms and small dinning areas for private parties and the like; I think I would have liked to have a job like that when I was young, what a great way to work and get exercise!         Feb 2011

Still on Eggplant...Favorite Marinated Eggplant!

Still on Eggplant...Favorite Marinated Eggplant!

Melanzane Marinate

2 long eggplant
2 cloves of garlic
2 bay leaves
White wine vinegar
Salt
Whole black peppercorns
Olive oil for frying


Wash and dry the eggplant, cut off the ends and cut lengthwise throwing away the first lengthwise piece (all skin) and make these about 4mm in thickness. Do not skin the eggplant.
Fry in oil (do not flour the slices) and dry them on oil absorbing paper.  Once they are cold, place in a nice terrina and add the garlic cloves cut in half, the bay leaves and the peppercorns, lightly salt and cover it all with the white wine vinegar. Let rest for one night before serving. These are great as an antipasto or to accompany mixed boiled meats.  These should be consumed 3-4 days post preparation.

Parma for Eggplant Parmigiana! (No Cheese)

Parma for Eggplant Parmigiana! (No Cheese)

Thinking about a friend who the other day decided to make eggplant parmigiana, I had to go to my "bible" cookbook Emiliana and Romagnola wanting to set it straight once and for all the difference between these dishes.
First off, the ultra famous eggplant parmigiana served in most restaurants in the US and in cookbooks as well, is actually what is called "Parmigiana di melanzane" vs what is made in Emilia Romagna called, "Melanzane alla parmigiana." The former is from Campania (Naples province) and uses heavy amounts of mozzarella.
Another myth to be exposed is the one when preparing eggplant, was to cover the raw slices with salt. This was supposed to force the vegetable to purge the bitter water contained within. Maybe centuries ago this plant was very bitter but today the varieties we have are far from bitter and the salting actually ruins the delicate flavor of the eggplant and is harmful so, NEVER, ever salt eggplant before use.  :-)


My favorite recipe for Melanzane all parmigiana (Emiliana recipe) is the following:
2 medium eggplant
50 gram prosciutto crudo (raw salted ham such as crudo di Parma or San Daniele - thick slice about 1/4 inch
1 small onion
300 gr peeled tomatoes 
50 gram butter
flour
olive oil
salt pepper
Wash and dry the eggplant, but the ends off and slice into rounds.
The slices should be about 4-5 mm in thickness.
Flour them well and fry in olive oil, dry on oil absorbing paper.
In a casserole dish, melt the butter (may substitute olive oil here is desired) together with the super finely SLICED onion. When the onion is nice and transparent, add the prosciutto cut into little cubes. Sautee for two minutes and add the tomatoes.
Salt and pepper to taste and then add the eggplant slices.
Cook over a slow flame, covered for approximately fifteen minutes.

Chiusi, Nonna Rosa's, Kamars and the Real Fagioli Toscani

Chiusi, Nonna Rosa's, Kamars and the Real Fagioli Toscani

Ceramica Kamars Being such a ceramic fanatic, she wondered why in all the years she had spent near Chiusi, she had never ventured into this Etruscan jewel. Founded in 1958 Kamars takes it’s name from the ancient Etruscan name for the town of Chiusi. They export unique place settings all over the world and provide the tableware for a few of the Etruscan restaurants in the old part of Chiusi (such as, La Solita Zuppa). The artist’s reproductions of antique forms, colors and shapes are a refreshing contrast to the infamous Deruta collections. Everything is hand painted of course, and with his small oven capacity, he produces these wonderful pieces in a very unhurried manner. If you ever have the chance to be in the triangle of this area, Chiusi, Chianciano Terme, Sarteano, stop in to see his wares and have dinner next door at Nonna Rosa’s located in the Hotel Rosati; you will be enormously satisfied.

Nonna Rosa is one of those surprises one does not expect in a “hotel” zone let alone, a three star hotel. This family owned and operated affair offers a step back into the past with wonderful vintage and antique pieces from the 1900’s (to note, his collection of Lambrettas).
They are warm and welcoming doing all they can to accommodate needs. Within this environment lies a fabulous restaurant run by the family of course, offering not just local fare, but a creative variation on a theme (the classic Tuscan fare with a flair). The restaurant is decorated in every angle lending the feeling as if in ones own home. There is a wonderful fireplace, sconces rendering soft lighting, candlesticks and candelabras here and there on various tables, chandeliers and lovely drapery not just on the windows. Once the ordering is complete, the time between dishes disappears while studying all the vintage pieces, which in turn, spurn many a conversation as memories related to some of the pieces arise.


Do not be shy when ordering, the portions are not huge and they are fabulous about giving half portions for pasta, you will probably pay for a full one but at least you do not have to throw away half of it. You must have an appetizer (one of their best is the tagliere with pecorino, bruschetta in varying flavors, mini onions, homegrown honey, and fabulous cinta senese cold cuts), a pasta course and main dish. The portion size of the main dish is small and really, just the right size allowing a little bit of room for desert; definitely try their chocolate fondue.

Fagioli Toscani – Simply the Best About Tuscan Cannelini or (White Kidney Beans). Beans must always soak overnight no matter what you read. Before cooking, rinse and add fresh cold water for cooking and do not salt the water until the very end.
For 6 500 gm or 18 oz or 1lb of Cannelini beans 10 Large leaves of Sage, or more if small 20 gm or, a tad less than 1 oz Butter salted 2 Soup spoons of hearty flavored olive oil 2 Soup spoons of tomato sauce Bring the beans to a boil on medium heat, as soon as they begin to boil, turn down low. Cook uncovered until done, not mushy, they need to hold their shape. When done, drain reserving a few spoons of cooking liquid and set aside.

Melt butter and oil together in a large saucepan, (large surface area) When the fats begin to bubble, add the beans the sage either as whole leaves or cut with scissors into three, salt and pepper to taste. Sauté and when almost all the liquid has been absorbed, add the tomato sauce. Stir together well and cook for another two minutes (If the mix seems too dense, add a few spoons of the cooking water from the beans). Serve hot as a side dish, garnished with olive oil and accompanied with crusty bread either plain or toasted and rubbed with garlic. 

April 28, 2009

Go with Everything Dressing

Go with Everything Dressing

1/2 cup of extra virgin olive oil (for a stronger flavor) or use other type of olive oil depending on tastes.
¼ cup of red wine vinegar
1 Tablespoon of Dijon mustard
1 clove of garlic pressed
Salt and pepper to taste
½ tsp of sweet basil or Italian herbs or for a different twist Provence mix of herbs.

Combine ingredients in a covered jar and shake to blend. This can be mixed with a hand blender or a whisk noting that using good olive oil will make a nice thick and creamy dressing. For those who like Dijon, add more than one tablespoon.

Paté with Grappa and Black Truffles

Paté with Grappa and Black Truffles

I have wanted to publish this recipe for a long time but could not find the recipe; it was packed away in a box eons ago thinking I would eventually be able to get back to the place I left it and voilà, I have so, here it is.

This is one of the best paté’s I have ever tasted and if you want a little variation on the theme, add a tiny bit of black truffle. ;-)

300 grams (10.7oz) chicken livers
300 gram white onions
60 grams (generous 2 oz) salted butter
2 tablespoons grappa (please use excellent grappa, none of those flavored fruit things but, grappa from wine such as, Pinot Nero, Muller Thurgau, Moscato ecc.)
One half of a chicken broth cube (without MSG)
1 bay leaf (alloro)
Worcester sauce
Salt

Carefully clean every trace of bile from the livers if not already done for you (check to make sure). Also, clean as much of the connective tissue as well, which will give a creamier mixture. For this recipe to be it’s best, the livers must be ultra fresh.
Wash and dry them then proceed to cutting them into 2 or 3 pieces.

Thinly slice the onions. Melt the butter then add the onions and sauté over moderate heat making sure they do not brown in any way, cook until nice and glossy. Add the livers and the bay leaf, raise the heat and cook stirring frequently.
Add to this cooked mixture the grappa and let evaporate adding the crumbled broth cube at the end of evaporation (try to use broth cubes or concentrated meat extract pastes without MSG). Taste and if necessary, add salt and complete the seasoning with a dash of Worcester sauce. If desired, this is the time to add the black truffle.

Turn off the heat and remove the bay leaf. Transfer the mixture to a Cuisinart or blender or any type of electric grinder/chopper or stick blender. Mix until everything is soft and creamy.

Grease a pretty mold and pour the mixture in pressing it lightly in to all the angles. Cover and refrigerate.

Before un-molding, place a dishtowel that has been soaked in very hot water and rung dry tightly around the mold. Place on serving platter and flip and un-mold tapping the bottom where needed. Serve with warm thinly sliced toasted crusty bread. Serves 8

 January 16, 2009

The Ecstasy of Italy- Part II

The Ecstasy of Italy- Part II

After leaving way too much money in Germany, the two food hounds headed to the Dolomites in Trentino, Alto Adige or Sud Tirol. Even though it was still August and full-on Italian vacation time, it was nice to be back in Italy where the food is always good even when it is bad, and the wine, oh God the wine; finally back to real heavenly wine! Menus were in three languages although we did not need it, it was nice to see that Italy was catering to travelers and making life a little easier by offering other languages on the menu without having to fight to find out what you were ordering from people who did not care to even try to speak English or another language for that matter (and I am talking about two towns where the tourism is heavily Italian, Madona di Campiglio and Pinzolo).

Once again food and wine was a joy and the days were filled with stupendous hikes at 2500 meters, mushroom photography, grappa tasting and of course, the can’t-live-without, sprtiz campiglio style. One of the greatest tragedies of Campiglio, especially for one who has grown up with the place over 40 years is to see how the ultra rich manage to destroy the simplicity and true nature or personality of a place; just look at Cortina and what is has become! Campiglio should be left as a place for skiing and summer trekking, hiking and nature, a place for casual dress, simple genuine food to fill the huge appetites fueled from the vigorous outdoor activity the area has to offer.

Unfortunately, the “locals” who are not willing to pay massive prices for a slice of carrot cake, are outnumbered by the twits who could care less about how much they spend, all they want to do is be seen never really looking at the price, paying and leaving the locales with the idea that it is OK to charge high prices. Kid you not, two glasses of Prosecco and ONE slice of carrot cake was 18 Euros!!! This translates into 4 Euros for the cake and 7 Euros a glass for the bubbles, insane and offensive to those who work hard for their money. With this come the changes from rustic mountain, simple and real, to false refined BS, shops selling Rolex, furs and lots of useless things for people with nothing better to do with their money than buy more “stuff” and fuel a false atmosphere.

The outdoor sporting goods stores abound with prices to match. With a bit of preplanning regarding clothing (buying it for much, much less in Milan), Campiglio can be sojourned without spending a fortune although, the “ovini” (gondolas) to the mountain locations are not cheap but hey, that is one fee we are happy to pay to have the opportunity to see vistas worth millions and to listen to the sounds of silence. Pinzolo is a good option for lodging for those who wish to save some money with Campiglio only 15 minutes away and not to ignore and brush aside is Pinzolo’s Dos del Sabbion.
Some exceptional meals, superb lodgings with breathtaking views from one’s hotel room may be had at the Hermitage chalet hermitage in Campiglio. Their stube-hermitage Stube Restaurant is expensive but memorable and half pension affords one a glimpse of the talented chef and pastry chef (beware, bottled water is 7 Euros a liter).

Ah Italy, alive, sexy, passionate, and expressive how else should one end a vacation except in ecstasy? 

Vicenza!

Vicenza!

After having a slow leisurely day in the city, soaking up Spritz’s, colors and architecture we floated to our restaurant outside of town, at the top of a small hill overlooking the undulating lush green river valley of Vicenza. Musing over what it was that was making me feel so comfortable in this city and why I felt I could live in this historic city center, acknowledging with respect such Venetian grandeur, I cry out; “Ah hah,” having realized what it was about the place. This city is compact for a city yet elegant, wealthy and clean and, very well maintained, almost a miniature of the best parts of a city packed into one compact parcel.

There is a sense of welcome, the feeling one might have in their own living room and an ease with which one may move in the city. The streets are direct yet every angle, every corner has something to be uncovered and discovered. The history is multilayered with remnants from Roman, Gothic, Baroque Renaissance and Neoclassical eras all within comfortable reach of the ordinary person.

OK, back to the trattoria we discovered while spending a few days in this neat city. Al Cavalino is a lovely restaurant situated at the very top of Creazzo overlooking the river valley of Vicenza. The ambient is warm and welcoming, the owners proud of what they do and what they offer and how it is presented. Sipping Venegazzu we pondered the flavors of the wine along with bites of sformato di polenta and melted asiago and funghi, little morsels of Puzzone di Moena with green apples all meant to dip into a tiny dish of limpid fragrant honey from the altopiano of Asiago and drank up the view of the surrounding areas. 

(October 12, 2008)

Pienza & Pecorino

Pienza & Pecorino

If you have never been to Pienza, a town near Siena in Tuscany, I insist you make an effort to go. This warm, small and hospitable town is a true gem, a place to go when you want to “experience” the life around you versus flying through.

The beautiful, no, the stunning view from behind the cathedral at the bar overlooking the Val D’Orcia is enough to keep one spellbound for days. The warm sexy, soft yellow of the stone and yellow sand used in the masonry bestows this sense of “home.” There are quite a few places in town between those soft walls where one may rent a room and actually “live” the idyllic life. I can hardly wait until Spring arrives to go back and savor that life; spend a night or two there, eat at Latte di Luna for fabulous fresh "pici al tartufo nero" (loaded with truffles not just a sprinkle of them) or, roast duck or young roast pig. Of course, La Buca delle Fate is another wonderful spot to feast, close to that great ice cream and coffee bar. ;-)

There is a wonderful wrought iron shop in which to spend some time dreaming, imagining the house with pieces similar and best of all is to wander the cheese shops. The pecorino cheese abounds in these cheese havens as well as, goat cheese specialties and, they are stocked with salami, wines and culinary treasures. I can hardly wait to go back and wine taste, cheese sample and soak up the scenery, sign me up! ;- I can see this town is going to be a monthly escape for me.Unfortunately with this beauty and passion one has to take the red-tape-Italian-“sauce,” which covers everything here however it is worth it most of the time. Actually, time will be split half here and half in the states so the negatives will be supplanted by moving frequently between “zones.” :-))) I guess the hard part now of my daily decisions will be, “gosh, do we want to get that red for the cellar or, just for dinner?” Or, “shall we drive to Pienza or Norcia for cheese today?” Or, maybe take a few more days and go to Northern Italy for a cheese and wine run or even Milan for shopping depending on how desperately we need to see some city life. ;-)) You know, those “hard kinds” of decisions.

OK, back to Pienza and tour guide mode. If you do not have time to savor the town, it is an injustice. The Piccolomini palace/museum is a stop worth doing and I suggest (strongly), the museum store! The store has books in various languages and has a lovely refined presentation and ambiance as well as fabulous gifts in the offerings. The store is quite unlike Italy; in that it is so nicely presented and lighted (pondering,  maybe foreigners are behind it). I could imagine how great it would be to cycle Pienza and the surrounding area, stopping to taste cheese at the numerous farms alongside the roads, to picnic and wine taste (maybe on bikes)? Then again, a driver would be great too so the wine tasting could occur in full force… ;-)) A dopo!

(October 8, 2008)

An Original Menu...

An Original Menu...

Ok you have to hold on to your pants for this one. While perusing a menu the other night I stumbled upon a few entries that made me chuckle then one that really made me insane with laughter, luckily I was not stone drunk otherwise I would have laughed my head off and made a fool of myself. So I am sure you all remember the great Antonio Salieri and his musical skills as well as his portrayal in Amadeus and the life of Mozart, well somehow he was paired with one of these fish dishes and it made me laugh to think they were being tongue-in-cheek with it all until I saw what was listed underneath! I began to think, they are using movies to list some of these dishes, thinking they are being cute... So, with a load of mirth inside of me, I had to order a plate of grilled Octopussy! Yep folks you read this one right and it took another load of wine for me to actually eat the stuff; scrumptious it was and all I could do was laugh the whole way home!!!! I did not have the heart to tell them the translation of that word in this Italian restaurant needed to be...well changed to simple octopus...but then again, maybe they were thinking about the James Bond movie...

September 29, 2008 se

Ristorante La Meridiana a Domodossola, What a Gem!!

Ristorante La Meridiana a Domodossola, What a Gem!!

Oh my god, yesterday’s stumble into this unbelievable restaurant restored my faith in off-the-beaten-path places to eat. This was a find of monumental proportions and anyone who can or is able, head to Domodossola for a fabulous meal. They specialize in fish courses but also propose perfect Spanish fare. This is of course family-owned and operated, which means the clan of ultra dedicated and proud owners will serve you. Situated close to the Swiss border this town boasts a lively atmosphere. There is a fun Jazz Club hidden off of the main street, nicely frescoed palazzini all framed with the majestic mountains of the Val Dossola. The family recently restored an old building from the very early 1700’s into a casa-vacanza in the locale of Cadarese, the Valley of Antigorio. The area will soon host thermal baths as well as sport complexes and recreational activities summer and winter.

For information regarding the vacation lodging, La Meridiana

The restaurant is one of a kind serving courses that would cost upwards 20€ per plate. Many of the risotto fish dishes or paella must be ordered for a minimum of two bodies, which would tell any food fanatic your dishes are prepared to order! They do not have precooked this or that. Saturday is their busiest day at lunch and trust me, the tables turned not twice but three times during the lunching hour. The place is small; the tables are barren, wooden and simple. As a restaurant classification one might expect tablecloths or linen napkins; probably for dinner they set up in that manner as in the photos on the website, but for lunch it was nice and bare and simple. They put out paper placemats, a knife and fork serving the wine in big generous glasses and that is it folks. A very simple but stunningly divine repast.

The courses are presented without too much fanfare (lord with that crowd how can they do anything else but get the food to the tables) and the food was piping hot. They offer Spanish prosciutto hand cut per order rivaling any Italian prosciutto to date. Tending to lean towards Speck, this female became a convert since stopping in at this locale, ordering pearls or melon balls in a tortilla cup served with ultra thin slices of Spanish prosciutto and large shredded Parmigiano (not shaved). The bread was ultra fresh in nice thick generous slices and upon requesting a refill, they were more than happy to fulfill, which makes any Italian very happy. ;-)

It was hideously hot outside and the desire to eat a heavy meal was not on the planner but luckily I did order three courses, all of them small amounts of perfectly prepared dishes.  Tortelloni of Astice with julienned zucchini in a sauce neither I or my partner in crime could figure out; utterly divine and only four of these things on the plate, a perfect, perfect amount of food! While taking this meal in a very slow manner (due to the number of patrons in the place), I was able to spy other dishes whizzing by the table and most of them made me realize, this is going to have to be a regular watering hole in order to begin our exploration of the fabulous fish fare proffered.
Granted, living in the area would help but a trip from Milan to this restaurant is worth it and if you really want to soak up the scenery, get a room so you can not only eat a great meal but explore their wonderful cellar as well. Beware of the desserts or I should say, save room for at least one. Difficult not to overhear the table next to us as the Italian/Swiss/French creature expounded on the delights of a semifreddo with amaretti of course all made by the chefs. If a meal is not in your budget, then go in for a glass of wine at the bar and a slice or two of prosciutto, this is truly a hidden gem and with a little bit of time to spare, I will translate the story of the cooks and family from their brochure, another impressive story (they boast fantastic chef training).

August 10, 2008

Dinning at Grinzane Cavour Castle

Dinning at Grinzane Cavour Castle

Dinning at the Castello Grinzane is a must for anyone who would like to re-live a little bit of history in modern elegance. Reservations are a smart thing and required to even get near the place in October and part of November (white truffle season). The auction for the largest of these beauties usually occurs at the castle annually and hosts a multitude of VIPs who populate the town of Alba as well. There is a quaint and convenient hotel, Hotel Casa Pavesi just meters from the castle offering unique room décor, breakfast on the terrace, bar and cozy reading rooms.

The dinning room at Castello Grinzane is not only an elegant atmosphere but the service is professional and discrete. High heels beware walking up to the castle, if one parks below it can be a wicked challenge on the rounded rock road as well as, taking the path towards the entrance and the uneven floors and steps once inside. This place was meant for climbing and sensible shoes plus, getting to the bathroom or better said, navigating the steps to the bathroom after a few glasses of wine can be an issue, especially when you really need to go. ;-)

While gazing up and through the windows from inside, over the expanse of the vineyard-clad hills beyond, one can not help but breathe a little bit of the history within these walls.

Dinner consisted of tagliolini with sausage ragù (sausage from the Roero region) a bottle of lively Barbera, hand-rolled bread sticks and a main course of Brasato al Barolo. Brasato is one of the ultra famous dishes from this area and is truly a must-try. The meat is soaked in Barolo wine, cloves, juniper berries and garlic for 12-24 hours then removed from that marinade and slow baked for 1½ in fresh Barolo but not before performing a sauté of carrot, celery and onions, browning the meat and then bathing it in Barolo.

After all that food no one needed dessert but they insisted with a few complimentary cookies and of course we did have to imbibe in an outstanding grappa! The waiter brought the bottle to the table after we told him a little bit about our taste preferences; he suggested this one and poured two generous glasses offering us, on his wallet, a second. God, a second glass would have done this little lady in, she would have needed a stretcher to get down the stairs.

While seated outside on the benches in the gardens encircling the castle, the night air was cool (blissfully) and the night birds extremely busy. Something came whizzing by my head at a speed so fast my hair flew up and my ears were buzzing from the speed with which this creature flew. Who knows what it was, certainly not an owl of any sort and not a bat. The lights across the valley to the other hill town were mesmerizing and suggestive, music floated up from the tent party near the hotel, laughter and the tingle of glasses while toasting; all elements adding to the ambience rendering the experience even more suggestive for a creative mind. The past oozed around us with the pride of the people of the town for the place they live and for the traditions they protect.

(August 6, 2008)

Rosa Solis

Rosa Solis

The other night at Antico Ristorante agli Schioppi (ski-yop-pi) she finished off her meal with a rosolio, never having heard of it before she let them recommend this little sweet after dinner drink. Rosolio, also known as Rosoli was originally made from the herb "sundew" (Drosera rotundifolia), or "Rosa Solis" and, it was made completely from the juice of this herb. The Sundew plant (carnivorous, Lat. Drosera rotundifolia L.) was used to make a bright yellow cordial water that was somewhat strong in alcohol content. This water seems to have originated in Renaissance Turin thought to have medicinal and aphrodisiac properties before becoming a popular drink.

The very first arrival of these waters to England in the late 1400’s, was strictly for medicinal use (as alcoholic medicinals), which were prescribed in small doses to lift the spirits and strengthen the heart. By 1700, these precursors to modern liqueurs were used for their intoxicating effects as well as supposed medicinal virtues, most of them becoming recreational drinks. Many cordials were made with precious ingredients such as, gold and pearls thought to renew the natural heat, recreate and revive the spirits and free the body from the bad diseases. Some of these forgotten concoctions were Royal Usquebaugh, a spicy liqueur laced with flakes of gold leaf, which actually had an origin from the Aureum potabile or drinkable gold of the alchemists. Many early varieties of “waters” were flavored with spices and herbs thought to settle the stomach after excessive eating, which lead to the name of surfeit waters.

The fact that many cordials were considered aphrodisiacs, contributed to the consumption in social settings instead of in a medical context and this is how we believe Rosa Solis originated. This was distilled over large quantities of the sundew plant while including hot provocative spices like cubebs, grains of paradise and galingale. Supposedly, the sundew plant stirred up lust and when distilled, reflected a glittering yellow color like gold and silver rendering the whole concoction “golden” thus imparting it’s golden warmth within once ingested. During the time of Salmon, rosa solis was used in England at the end of a banquet to wash down other revered food items such as, kissing comfits and candied eryngo roots (sounds truly wicked if you ask me). Today, rosolio is produced in Italy and Spain although no longer a distillate of the sundew plant.


Today, Rosolio is a generic name for any sweet, syrupy, aromatic cordial or liqueur (with low alcohol content) frequently homemade. When rosolio is made from a fruit, the syrupy liquid is extracted then mixed with grain alcohol and in some instances, the addition of specific herbs and or spices occurs. When the drink is made from fresh red rose petals, it is usually called Rosolio di Rose. This version is red or pink in color and has an alcohol content between 22% and 24%.

Take of the hearbe Rosa-Solis, gathered in Iulie one gallon, pick out all the black moats from the leaues, dates halfe a pound, Cinamon, Ginger, Cloues of each one ounce, grains halfe an ounce, fine sugar a pound and a halfe, red rose leaues, greene or dried foure handfuls, steepe all these in a gallon of good Aqua Composita in a glasse close stopped with wax, during twenty dayes, shake it well together once euerie two dayes. Your sugar mutt be powdred, your spices brused onely or grosselie beaten, your dates cut in long slices the stones taken away. If you add two or three graines of Ambergreece, and as much muske in your glasse amongst the rest of the Ingredients , it will have a pleasant smell. Some adde the gum amber with coral and pearle finely poudred , and fine leafe golde. Some vse to boyle Ferdinando bucke in Rosewater, till they haue purchased a faire deepe crimson colour, and when the same is cold, they colour their Rosa solis and Aqua Rubea therewith.

From Sir Hugh Platt, Delightes for Ladies (London: 1600)

(July 14, 2008)