The Ecstasy of Italy- Part II

The Ecstasy of Italy- Part II

After leaving way too much money in Germany, the two food hounds headed to the Dolomites in Trentino, Alto Adige or Sud Tirol. Even though it was still August and full-on Italian vacation time, it was nice to be back in Italy where the food is always good even when it is bad, and the wine, oh God the wine; finally back to real heavenly wine! Menus were in three languages although we did not need it, it was nice to see that Italy was catering to travelers and making life a little easier by offering other languages on the menu without having to fight to find out what you were ordering from people who did not care to even try to speak English or another language for that matter (and I am talking about two towns where the tourism is heavily Italian, Madona di Campiglio and Pinzolo).

Once again food and wine was a joy and the days were filled with stupendous hikes at 2500 meters, mushroom photography, grappa tasting and of course, the can’t-live-without, sprtiz campiglio style. One of the greatest tragedies of Campiglio, especially for one who has grown up with the place over 40 years is to see how the ultra rich manage to destroy the simplicity and true nature or personality of a place; just look at Cortina and what is has become! Campiglio should be left as a place for skiing and summer trekking, hiking and nature, a place for casual dress, simple genuine food to fill the huge appetites fueled from the vigorous outdoor activity the area has to offer.

Unfortunately, the “locals” who are not willing to pay massive prices for a slice of carrot cake, are outnumbered by the twits who could care less about how much they spend, all they want to do is be seen never really looking at the price, paying and leaving the locales with the idea that it is OK to charge high prices. Kid you not, two glasses of Prosecco and ONE slice of carrot cake was 18 Euros!!! This translates into 4 Euros for the cake and 7 Euros a glass for the bubbles, insane and offensive to those who work hard for their money. With this come the changes from rustic mountain, simple and real, to false refined BS, shops selling Rolex, furs and lots of useless things for people with nothing better to do with their money than buy more “stuff” and fuel a false atmosphere.

The outdoor sporting goods stores abound with prices to match. With a bit of preplanning regarding clothing (buying it for much, much less in Milan), Campiglio can be sojourned without spending a fortune although, the “ovini” (gondolas) to the mountain locations are not cheap but hey, that is one fee we are happy to pay to have the opportunity to see vistas worth millions and to listen to the sounds of silence. Pinzolo is a good option for lodging for those who wish to save some money with Campiglio only 15 minutes away and not to ignore and brush aside is Pinzolo’s Dos del Sabbion.
Some exceptional meals, superb lodgings with breathtaking views from one’s hotel room may be had at the Hermitage chalet hermitage in Campiglio. Their stube-hermitage Stube Restaurant is expensive but memorable and half pension affords one a glimpse of the talented chef and pastry chef (beware, bottled water is 7 Euros a liter).

Ah Italy, alive, sexy, passionate, and expressive how else should one end a vacation except in ecstasy? 

Vicenza!

Vicenza!

After having a slow leisurely day in the city, soaking up Spritz’s, colors and architecture we floated to our restaurant outside of town, at the top of a small hill overlooking the undulating lush green river valley of Vicenza. Musing over what it was that was making me feel so comfortable in this city and why I felt I could live in this historic city center, acknowledging with respect such Venetian grandeur, I cry out; “Ah hah,” having realized what it was about the place. This city is compact for a city yet elegant, wealthy and clean and, very well maintained, almost a miniature of the best parts of a city packed into one compact parcel.

There is a sense of welcome, the feeling one might have in their own living room and an ease with which one may move in the city. The streets are direct yet every angle, every corner has something to be uncovered and discovered. The history is multilayered with remnants from Roman, Gothic, Baroque Renaissance and Neoclassical eras all within comfortable reach of the ordinary person.

OK, back to the trattoria we discovered while spending a few days in this neat city. Al Cavalino is a lovely restaurant situated at the very top of Creazzo overlooking the river valley of Vicenza. The ambient is warm and welcoming, the owners proud of what they do and what they offer and how it is presented. Sipping Venegazzu we pondered the flavors of the wine along with bites of sformato di polenta and melted asiago and funghi, little morsels of Puzzone di Moena with green apples all meant to dip into a tiny dish of limpid fragrant honey from the altopiano of Asiago and drank up the view of the surrounding areas. 

(October 12, 2008)

Spritz Campiglio Style

Spritz Campiglio Style

A few months ago while in Vicenza these two piglets reintroduced themselves to an aperitif Vicentina, the now infamous Spritz. Although good, I felt I had to give my allegiance to Italian bollicini finding the Spritz to be good but not exceptional. Now, I have changed my tune after having these Campiglio style, in fact I now talk about them non-stop. The difference is in the type of white wine used; at Vicenza these are made haphazardly as far as measuring is concerned. They contain white wine, Aperol (bright orange bitter) and water and a little bit of ice.

While visiting Campiglio, we stumbled on a fantastic “watering hole” for our preferred bar. Not only because the prices were fair but also the Spritz was out of this world and always accompanied with small cutting boards of Spec or cheese. The first time ordering these Campiglio Spritz, we were amazed at how good they were and ended up doing a second round. After that little sosta, this drink became our all time favorite particularly after coming down off the mountains in the afternoons from hikes. Until I was told what went into them, I had no clue as to the “why” of my preference and here is the secret: instead of any old white wine, they use Prosecco (no wonder)!

The glasses are well stocked with ice Aperol, Prosecco and some water although we do not know the right proportions of each ingredient except the ice. ;-) After about the fourth time at the watering hole, we talked to the "tender" and he told us the Spritz is not only the “in” drink (he serves gazillions of them) but has become the preferred cocktail of the “in” places and of that area. Curiously, while strolling the main square in front of the Swiss Chalet Bar/Café we noted there was nothing but the orange drinks on almost every table. Looking at each other and thinking the same thing, we decided to test one out at  "the Suisse " and compare it to our favorite bar tender’s special. The drink was good, served in smaller wine glasses but it just did not have the flavor of the other; must be the type of Prosecco used. So, on the last day before reentry to the big city, we had our farewell Spritz and will not have another until returning to that area (would hate to ruin a great memory)! Looks like we will be making plans to head back there real soon, the withdrawals are terrible.

September 16, 2008