Showing posts with label Travel. Show all posts
Showing posts with label Travel. Show all posts

Sunday, September 25, 2016

Baked Orecchiette Pugliese




This is truly THE BEST baked pasta dish on the planet and it is authentic, a pure Italian dish, ancient recipe from Puglia. There are so many created baked pasta dishes but few are really what I would call Italian. This is one of the few and it is fabulous particularly if you are lucky enough to use fresh Perini or San Marzano plum tomatoes from your garden or, from Puglia and buffalo mozzarella. 
The only way to make this is by using the real ingredients and that means, real Parmigiano Reggiano or Padano and not aged over 18 months. If the cheese is older than 24 months, it will be override the delicate flavors of the tomatoes and mozzarella.

This can be made ahead by putting it together and refrigerating. This dish is great as leftovers and eaten cold too but it truly is a one course meal when hot just add a salad and a great red wine. Buon appetito!

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Preheat oven 400F
Put water on to boil and salt it well
Sea salt, fresh ground pepper
extra virgin olive oil
1 white onion, finely chopped
2 cloves garlic finely sliced
1 or 2 dried red chilies, crumbled
3 ½ lb ripe tomatoes or 3 14oz cans Perini or San Marzano peeled tomatoes
large handful of fresh basil leaves
1 tbl red wine vinegar (or less, depends on the tomatoes)
14oz dried orecchiette (see photos)
big handfuls of freshly grated Parmigiano
3 (5oz) balls of mozzarella di buffala (buffalo mozzarella or fresh-made soft mozzarella, the balls stored in water) This type of mozzarella, which is the only type that can be called mozzarella otherwise it has to be labeled "fior di latte," gives the dish a creamy and delicate flavor. Do not use Precious Mozzarella – this is not the real thing and makes a rubbery disgusting dish. Mozzarella is a low fat cheese by nature so looking for a part skim or all skim milk cheese is like an oxymoron in my book.

Heat a couple of lugs or two spoons of olive oil. Add onion, garlic and chili and slowly fry for about 10 minutes on med to low heat until softened but without any color.
If using fresh tomatoes, remove the core with the tip of a small knife, plunge them into the boiling water for about 40 seconds until the skin starts to come away, then remove with slotted spoon and remove the pan from the heat.
Put tomatoes in a bowl and run cold water over them. Slide the skins off, squeeze out the seeds, and roughly chop.
Add the fresh or canned tomatoes to the onion and garlic and a small glass of water. Bring to a boil and simmer for around 20 minutes. Put them through a food processor or blender to make a loose sauce (or hand blender). Tear the basil leaves into the sauce and correct the seasoning with salt, pepper and a tiny swig of red wine vinegar.
When the sauce tastes perfect, bring the water back to the boil. Add the orecchiette to the water and cook to very al dente, even under done since this pasta will cook again in the oven.
Drain and toss with half of the tomato sauce and a handful of Parmigiano Padano or Reggiano. Rub baking pan with a little olive oil. Layer a little pasta in the pan followed by tomato sauce, a handful of grated Parmigiano and 1 sliced up mozzarella ball. Then, repeat these layers until all ingredients have been used. end with a layer of mozzarella on top. If you need more, use it.
Bake for 15 minutes or until golden crisp and bubbling.

Castello Pavone, Ivrea - Piedmonte, Val d'Aosta Italy


Courtyard of the Castello



A very brief visit to Castello di Pavone in the town of Ivrea on the outskirts between the Val D'Aosta,  and Piedmonte, Italy was worth every Euro. Lucky to have come in on the tail of two groups who vacated that very day and the weekend before Valentines, we had the place all to ourselves. The historic site has been lovingly restored and is dutifully maintained. You will find yourself immersed in an environment with most of the modern comforts you might desire and a nice dash of hardship to remind you how difficult it is to live in a castle, even today.

The courtyard
 The owner is the only one who has a vehicle in the upper portion of the grounds; all us low-lifers must park below the dwelling and climb a nice steep set of flagstone stairs to the outer wall where there is a door built into the rock (remember this when you pack your bags...).  :-)  You must ring the bell to enter and the door will then slowly open automatically. As it opens the view beyond comes alive and you descend into a short tunnel of brick terraces until you arrive to the front of the castle. They provide help when asked, to bring your bags up to the castle and then to your room and if you are not young and strong, take the offer because the stairs do not end here. :-) Getting to your room could add in quite a few more and every step is worth it in my opinion. The staff is wonderful, helpful and happy.
Stained glass window of the suite
We were welcomed to our Royal Suite Pavone with a glass of Prosecco and promptly reserved our table in the dinning room for dinner. Having dinned there months prior, we knew dinner was a must; the ambience is fabulous.

The suite had one window and three portholes, yes a dark room with the dark wood ceiling but so typical of these old structures it just makes the whole experience more of an adventure.  There are no elevators here and I wondered how they received deliveries in the winter and during the rainy season because there is the old original river rock stone drive and I suppose their suppliers have a very difficult time during inclement weather (horribly slippery). Be sure to stop in the bar (the armory) and have a glass of wine and some outstanding appetizers.
Sunrise from the one window of the suite.



The dinning room is an experience and it is not just one room but made up of various adjoining rooms; one seems to be a little celestial room, up a few stairs off to the left of the fireplace in the main room and then to the right there is another room but I did not get a chance to see that one. The tables are large and round and stately; just perfect for a romantic and leisurely repast. The wine cellar is well stocked so you can accompany their excellent food with an excellent wine. If you stay more than one day, I suggest requesting to have your bottle of outstanding red wine opened before dinner to let it air. Such a shame to not order one of these wines because you do not have time to let it breathe properly. We suggested they try out a Vinturi and see for themselves how this could give them a greater amount of flexibility with client satisfaction (and sell more of those fabulous reds).

We did not have the chance to taste breakfast but I am convinced it was nothing shy of their standard. After a late dinner, there just was not room for breakfast even though they called at 10 to ask if we would like them to bring breakfast to our room. Check out is at 11 so if you would like a slower morning, I would ask them if they do late checkouts; even at a price it is worth it. The spell you fall into while there is  a shame to break so abruptly in the morning with the hassle of getting breakfast, packing and hauling your things back to the car. I was truly amazed watching these young waiters whisk platters of food up staircases to well hidden meeting rooms and small dinning areas for private parties and the like; I think I would have liked to have a job like that when I was young, what a great way to work and get exercise!         Feb 2011

Saturday, September 24, 2016

Heavenliness - Val d'Aosta, the Alps! 

 If you have never been to the Italian side of the Alps, which means taking in the fabulous Val d'Aosta, you have not lived! Culturally Aosta is loaded with ancient history from BC to the beautiful Roman Amphitheater ruins to the Alpine culture and modern day. Everywhere you gaze there are mountains framing your views, the town piazza is crowned with tall glaciers in the background and you can have it all while sipping caffe in the square. I love Val d'Aosta



 

The gastronomic pleasures of this area begin with the infamous Fontina DOP. This is the queen of the alpine meadows, a cheese made from raw milk, fragrant and alive. To be labeled or considered Fontina DOP, it must be made only from cows of the Valdostana breed that forage on local grasses and meadows. This is the cheese that gave birth, to la fonduta (fondue). It was from this awesome fonduta, that was transformed into the other versions of fondue in Switzerland. If you want to savor the original, this is where you need to be! Do not forget to try Fromadzo DOP too, another very special cheese of the area, mix of goat and cow's milk. 

This area is also ultra famous for the Lard d'Arnad DOP and the Vallée d'Aoste Jambon de Bosses DOP. The prosciuto was an ancient gift for bishops and archbishops, produced in the city of Saint Rhemy-en-Bosses since the 14th century. The frigid stream of air that would come down to the valleys bordering with Switzerland and the long winter cold coupled with the manual labor of man, helped transform these raw prosciutti into authentic one-of-a-kind pieces. They are aged 12, 18 and 24 months and if you can find this ham, you must try it. 

The lard of Arnad is truly the jewel of the mountain peasant's world. Today it is found in the area for sale where previously, it was very difficult to find because it was the source of sustenance during those long harsh and cold winter months. As they say, living in the mountains is about 9 months of frigid cold and 3 months of just cold. So be sure to try ultra thin slices of this served on warm crusty pieces of bread; this is something you will come back for time and again. 

A few of the brands assuring you of quality and origin are Saveurs du Val D'Aoste as well as  Alpenzu. Alpenzu is another group of the Val d'Aosta guaranteeing the origin of the products sold. While at the hotel, we were lucky to taste chestnuts in honey as part of an appetizer and while shopping we stumbled on le tegole, famous cookies of the area, another must-try!  

While traveling make sure you do the castles of the region, they are fantastic!    
July 2010

Romantik Hotels - European Class

If you have not heard of this group of hotels, then you are in for a real surprise. This franchise has hotels all over Europe specializing in romantic getaways, spas, wonderful food and dinning as well as, stunning surroundings. I suggest ordering their catalog so you can see for yourself the smorgasbord of choices! If it is possible, at least for this creature, I will try to organize my business trips around staying in one of these hotels. You definitely get value for your money and are in lovely historical environments always family owned and operated so there is a nice sense of friendliness, lacking in the large hotels.Romantik
(June 2010) 

Tuesday, September 20, 2016

Bet you didn't know...


Did you know Italy contains 70% of the world's art? Think about that for a second, a country so small physically is so crammed full of art, monuments, churches, artifacts, tombs and on and on!! It is just amazing to me the whole concept, thinking about the number of people who passed through the country leaving such an imprint and patrimony for the rest of the world to come. No wonder Italy is so short on living space. ;-)

Meucci was the father of the telephone, not Mr. Bell; in fact Bell was well known for pirating his inventions. Marconi was the father of the radio and I bet you did not know the world's first freeway, created conceptually and physically constructed was here is this little land of dreamers and creators. Today the Italian autostrada is one of the best out there that is, if you do not judge it for the curves. With such a lack of space to build freeways, and the fact people will not sell land, the roads have to curve around history and stubbornness, so remember this when you are screaming down the road and have to back off by 50 mph to make a curve and stay alive. They have the best and world's only draining asphalt so when it rains, you can see the road; it is truly amazing (and still drive fast).

Now a quick tip on how to choose Gorgonzola, make sure the mold is not uniformly distributed. You should look for inoculation lines as well as where made. Gorgonzola originated in a small town close to Milan called, obviously, Gorgonzola. Today most of it is produced in the province of Novara and regions of Piedmont and Lombardy.  Try a risotto with Gorgonzola!

Sunday, September 11, 2016

Palladio Card…Stunning Veneto…again!!!
(August 16, 2009)


Damn, this summer has escaped  and in this heat and humidity, I am just pinning away to get back to Veneto and purchase a PalladioCard for the year of Palladio celebration and, see the Festa della Ceramica in Nove, near Marostica and Bassano del Grappa. If anyone is planning on being near Venice, Verona or Trieste, you must go get your PalladioCard and visit the villas in this area.Having passed Palazzo Barbaran in early April or was that late March…anyway the bug was planted from that day on. Every time traipsing through Veneto, I have eyes only for those fabulous (not just the big villas) Palladian agricultural magnate’s homes…the working “farms” per se. The richness of those homes, landowners, working ranches; just the crumbled site of these places makes me go insane. I would adore a fabulous Palladian home…the simplicity of the windows, the elegance of the exterior and balance.

Have you ever really “looked” at a window in the Veneto? The fact the storm doors or shutters are inset from the line of the house meaning, the window opening is at least a foot and a half in depth so the glass portion of the window is nearest the interior followed by the shutters but still within the frame of the window opening of the building (in the photo left, there is an example of inside the window opening and outside, the lower windows). Then on the outside of the opening is the decoration and thus, you have an ultra refined system of closing off the glass portion to keep out the elements without destroying or detracting from the finesse of the exterior Palladian elements. God, it is stupendous! I have got to find a house with these hinged (4 panels) shutters allowing one to open them in quarters and to fold them back so elegantly against the window opening without disturbing the “eye candy,” if you will.Here are a few links just to whet your appetites and while looking and planning, you must find a way to catch a show at the Teatro Olimipico, what a sight!! VILLA_BADOER
Villa Contarini, Villa Emo, Villa Godi, Villa Poiana,The Year of Palladio, Villa di Maser, Villa Pisani, Teatro Olimpico

Monday, September 5, 2016

Milan, Grand Milan – Summer in the Big City.


If you have never experienced Milan in August, it is one of the rare treats of this world! Parking is a “non problem” even though many stores are closed and coffee houses nonetheless the thrill of driving smack-dab center city is insane! We parked the car in the square right in front of the stock exchange; imagine that (OK, yes it was Saturday)! Nonetheless, driving roads prohibited to normal traffic unless you have a special permit is always ultra cool in these European cities and Milano defies any other city to attempt this feeling. The latest noise polls have placed Milano over New York City and certainly, during the regular months of the year, this is true but what peace and tranquility there was this day.

From where the car was parked, we walked a short distance to the main intersection and violà; the cathedral in its superlative splendor greeted us at one end of the vista, crowing the opposite end was, the majestic Castello Sforzesco. Ah yes, “Milàn, lè un grand Milàn” is a truism this time of year as it occurs again during the winter vacation (after Christmas)…the two best times of the year to experience and relish the treasures the city hoards.

Off to Fnac one of the most well stocked book stores with music, video, electronics, café, food and wine…what more can anyone wish for? Yes, a stop at La Rinascente would be just one more little dab of whipped cream for the day. ;-)


August, 2009

Roma Bellissima!

It has been way too long since going back to Roma, such an amazing city and overflowing with history and architecture. The Roman women are very unique in their style; American guys looking for a hot woman, you need to check them out, so different from the Milanese lady. Rome is not far from Napoli so it has quite a strong southern influence; the driving is insane but not quite as bad as Napoli (although not far from matching it if not surpassing Napoletan drivers). Taxi drivers are still arguing in the streets at the taxi stand at Roma Termini (the pirates vs the legal taxi drivers), and waiters and owners are still hawking business from the sidewalks in front of their activity or on the plaza square. Prices are horrendous in all the cafes and pizzerias (terrible food in the tourist zones...I mean how can you screw up a pizza???). There is trash alongside the curbs, not just cigarette butts, even though trash cans are frequent and visible; again I realize man is the only creature who shits where it eats and sleeps.

Nonetheless, Rome breathes a different air, the sidewalks are wide and easily walkable compared to Milano, the architectural eye candy is astonishing, the spirit of the Romans transports you to another time. They are packed with pride about their city as well as, fire and personality (watch your pockets however) ready to talk, to argue, to actively engage in just about anything; Rome truly bustles with life. I can see why Alessia (swimmer representing Italy in the World's these last weeks, but from Rome) loves her city and why she is proud; and my love/hate affair with this crazy country continues. How can one not love this world of history and wonders?


August 3, 2009

Sunday, September 4, 2016

California Miles

Exploring her own state is something she has not done much of so, she decided to grab her buggy and head off up the coast of California. She pointed her wheels towards the coastline until she arrived to stop in Santa Barbara and sip wine at the Harbor House as the late March fog swirled in around her.

Wandering up and down State Street in the heart of a lovely town, she wished she had a buddy with her to stop and eat at just about every wine bar and eatery there. As the fog quickly
moved in, she decided to head out to Solvang for a little tour of the place, one she had not revisited for over 25 years. Upon arriving she was truly surprised to see how much the town had changed over the years, all except the Abelskievers. After a really fast tour and a jaunt through the farmer's market for a bag of fresh cherries and bucket of cookies she jumped back in the car and left for San Luis Obispo to spend the night at the Madonna Inn.

Reading some of the print material, she was fascinated to learn how Alex Madonna was such a g
ood friend with William Randolf Hearst and how the two of them, with their dreams, created two masterpieces in their own rights. They both loved craftsmanship and quality and there seemed to be no end to their dreams. After a funky dinner in the pink restaurant, laden with photos of old Hollywood stars with the Madonna family, she headed back to explore the nuances of her funky room.

Clearly, the next day she was destined to visit Hearst's Castle and from one who has lived in Europe for over 10 years, living with, among and around villas, castles and palaces, this was enthralling, overwhelming, and humbling all at once. His vision, which he changed ad infinitum, was a mental work-out particularly when one can practically “feel” his vision, his dream and experience his efforts in every corner, in every piece of furniture, Della Robbia and gads of other antiques. Such fun it must have been for him! She almost envied that kind of power to create without limits.

OK, so onwar
d and "upwards" in the buggy towards Big Sur. Nepenthe http://wwwNeptune Big Sur was her late lunch stop. Anyone ever been there? Spectacular vistas, architecture and a luscious Bordeaux! '99 Pichon Lalande, from Pauillac coupled with artisan cheeses of California. She was in heaven! Contrary to her habit of wanting more wine, she savored this glass over an hour, feeling it wash over her velvety in texture, reveling in the deep purple ruby color and knowing she would never be able to find a bottle of this once home. Ha, thanks to her favorite wine merchants...she found her paradise after returning home.KLWine

Off again, towards Carmel for a lightening fast "look" and then a late arrival into San Francisco for a night on the wharf. Always her favorite place to be anytime of the year! Those
crab cocktails from the street vendors...! Later, in the room, she quietly planned the winery stops for the next day through Napa Valley.

The next day she flew through the wineries buying up a car load of "bottles full of grapes" and then headed out for a stop in Reno so she could spend the last night in another one of her regeneration spots, Mammoth Lakes...a small spot of tranquility this time of the year. The skiers were still there but just barely so the town was quiet and cozy. Mammoth Lakes

Firenze - Summer and Sangria!



Maybe it is the heat, causing me to think of Firenze, urges for Sangria or is it my usual spring fever...hum. Three recipes for Sangria are posted here, one in Italian, one for parties, English and the basic recipe in English and all superb! Now, all I have to do is grab that crazy maschio to share it with me somewhere high above the city or on some mountain top; I crave high mountains or is it the altitude and Italy combined, the lifestyle, the people, the culture and architecture, the cradle or culla of civilization? I must have lived there in a previous life.
When I took the early train to Florence last fall, I wanted to walk my old haunts and see if I could find a few old friends. Walking from the Santa Maria Novella station I could feel the city take hold of me. I walked around the Duomo and headed for Via Cavour; it was early and most of the eateries were receiving deliveries (the only time vehicles can be on the street) with shopkeepers out front sweeping and moping and washing windows. After passing one intersection I looked up at the pale rose and yellow facades and literally fell into a trance feeling the past around me, in me and pushing through me; I was home, I could not deny it, I had lived here before.

I felt like an Ea
gle soaring through and around the streets as I continued my walk.
Upon passing Piazza della Republica I yearned for more time to sit at the pink café seated outside nursing an espresso. Finally I spotted, through a space in two buildings, my favorite vista of Piazza della Signoria and I had to stop and lean against a wall. I felt as if someone had punched me in my gut; and someone had, my beloved city my favorite piazza; so many feelings assault me when I get to this square.


Years ago, when I lived close to the city, I remember walking through that same Piazza with my husband; it was late November, wicked cold and windy and it was night time although, not late. As we made it to the center near the fountain, we stopped and just listened, voraciously soaking up the solitude, the distinct lack of tourists and the cold air. I knew he was oblivious to what was coursing through me because he had slowly drifted away walking towards the Uffizi. I stood there and felt myself going back in time, as if someone was taking me back to this same spot, centuries ago.

I felt the different clothing I was wearing; I heard the horses and carriages over the uneven stones I could even smell the different scents, the fire pots burning in the square. Unexpectedly, it seemed as if I was in the midst of a crowd, spirits brushing against me and all this laughter, chatter and noise whirling around.

My husband yelled at me to get moving and I snapped out of it to find utter silence except for the wat
er falling in Neptune’s fountain (by Bartolomeo Ammannati). The wind was shoving me and, with the suggestive lighting of that square, I knew I had been there a lifetime before. Ah, home sweet home. So yes, when I crave Italy, now I truly understand why. I just wish I could make more frequent visits to this now crazy, loud and dirty city; my city, my past (or maybe it was a past I best forget).




May 5, 2009

Wine Bars Italian Style


Wine by the glass posted daily on the chalkboards; a really nice way of tasting without having to buy the bottle. This is one of the places we can wander into and have a glass with a taste of local salami and such as well as, the place we go when the "gang" gets together for a group dinner of Bagna Cauda, or Beef Bourgogne.

So what is next on Snow White's menu? With these days indoors, she is working on some super duper special cheese tartlets from the Alps.

Out and About in the Veneto



Casa del Parmigiano is a must see while traveling through Marostica, check out their site. Next to this shop is the Casa del Café where you may have a macchiatone that will knock your taste buds for a ride. A macchiatone is an espresso with a bit more steamed milk than just a caffè macchiato (or colored with a dash of milk and a teaspoon of froth); the coffee used here is a genuine treat. Next to these two shops is a good bar/coffee house where one may sit outside on the piazza and soak up the view with Illy coffee and fabulous pastries from the local pastry shop just a few minutes from the bar. Where to eat. There is also an incredibly quaint hotel not far from these three spots, Albergo Due Mori; nestled within the “land of grappa”, this modest hotel is a tiny distillation of emotions.


For those who wish to dine in history, a must-do is the Ristorante al Castello Superiore. High above the town of Marostica is a wonderful taste treat as well as, one for the eyes. Be sure when driving there to take a small car otherwise you cannot make the sharp turn up the castle drive to park above near the water well.

This restaurant makes one of the best Baccalà alla Vicentina I have ever had although the polenta is not true in presentation as it should be, the dish is still an authentic delight. Be prepared for a well stocked cellar with prices to match.


April 19, 2009

Peace in Times of Great Unrest



Wishing a peaceful Easter to all...
.


April, 2009

Not Just Any Bookstore...Bassano del Grappa

While roving the streets of Bassano del Grappa, this little day-tripper stumbled on an extraordinary bookstore fashioned as a library in an ancient palazzo. Art and culture have been joined in a meticulously restored edifice called Palazzo Roberti. The building dates back to the 1600’s and thanks to painstaking restoration, the palazzo presents a bookstore of the 21st century cradled in the essence of the past. Just browsing books one has the opportunity to admire the high intrinsic value of the architecture, the gardens, the statues and frescoes. Flanking the staircase is a banister, a superb work of art in and of itself; the fat hand carved wooden rail is supported by forged iron pieces resembling snakes. Today the cultural center, situated on the "piano nobile," allows us to live literature in the past during invitations and meetings with writers and artists of today. This lovely palazzo conquered me as it also did for Napoleon, who chose to reside there twice during his lifetime.

Lunch in Asiago



Had lunch while wandering Asiago the other day and what a major disappointment this little place was. The décor was lovely as you can see from the photos but the personnel and service was offensive.

The prices were high for what was offered and when I ordered some wine, it was either by the glass or by the half bottle. OK, fine but how about a list of what is available????? I ordered by the glass and the waitress trotted off up the stairs to see what was open….
When she returned it was not, would you like white or red, but this is what we have and presented me a bottle. So what do you do, tell her to take a hike? Not likely, she would probably spit in it if I had told her to get me something else. Who knows, the wine was probably someone’s leftover bottle from the night prior.

The head duck was dressed in a suit…for an Osteria?? Yes it ha
d tablecloths and was very nice downstairs but not enough to be that pretentious if you ask me; the quality of the food did not match the dress code. This little place is tied to the Hotel Europa a four star hotel…or I should say stolen stars for a rating and is next to one of the more famous hotels in the town. (This photo is the "nice" hotel)


Asiago is a fantastic altopiano with numerous small towns scattered around the plateau. This is not a Cortina d’Ampezzo or a Campiglio however there is that “air” or feeling of being on the verge of having been touched by the hands of “get rich quick” tourism.

Since Asiago is a short drive from Vicenza, this is a place for locals to get some skiing in wi
th just a short drive from home in the morning, on the slopes by 9 and then home by evening. Nonetheless, there is that air of catering to a higher tourist Euro and that brings nothing but disenchantment to those looking for a casual and relaxing little day trip away from it all. The area is well known for  cheese and limpid honey and is well equipped for skiing although here in March the lifts were closed even though there was still a lot of snow.

Granted it was Monday and shops are either closed on Monday or at the very least, during the morning, so the town was dead and many cafes or restaurants were closed. This only helped fuel the idea I had formed in my head of this town; that the season had just ended and no one really cared to be nice because they did not have to now, almost as if they were burnt-out and fed-up.

Despite this gloomy feeling, I will still venture a return trip during early summer, the hills must be breathtaking and there are other towns on the high plateau besides Asiago, which looked very inviting and comfortable and ready for exploration.