Sunday, August 28, 2016

Erba Luce” come on down!

Who can pass up an invitation to pass a few hours chilling at Isola dei Pescatori on a summer afternoon? Certainly, not this creature! The weather was humid with cloud cover tingeing the lake a dead, gray hue.  Nonetheless, Lago Maggiore is always beautiful; so peaceful watching the sail boats, the birds and hearing the water lap against the rocks. Having scoped out the island, we realized the far side is always the least traveled and so we chose a little wine bar with a terrace, La Malghera to help us pass the time. Mr "Piglet" presented lil’ Miss SnowWhite a nice refreshing white wine that would be perfect to offer at parties as cocktail wine. This white was called Erbaluce (err-bah-loo-chay) and originates north of Torino (part of the Piemontese region), and needs to be consumed within three years from harvest; in other words, drink up and do not age. ;-)This wine packs a whopping 13% vol. so make sure when drinking you are eating as well, something we managed to do quite well. Ordering a "cutting board" of cheese and sliced meats, we cleverly whiled away a few hours; how much better can it get? There were samples of prosciutto della Val Vigezzo, Bresaola, Pancetta Coppata, a dark prosciutto like bresaola seasoned with porcini mushrooms and spices, little tiny cacciatore salami, various cheeses, toma, and one type encrusted with fennel and other herbs.  Who said we were taking the ferry back to the mainland? Nope we were going to have to swim after that feast! 
(July 23, 2008)

Historic Barolo Wine


Barolo is produced from the Nebbiolo grapes although the Lampia, Michet and Rosé types are authorized for this wine as well. Barolo matures at the end of September (well as long as our weather and climate does not change much more), and the clusters are a dark blue/grayish color covered with their own wax. Barolo typically smells of tar and roses, and is capable of taking on an unusual orange tinge with age; the initial nose of a Barolo is often that of a pine tree. When subjected to aging of at least five years, the wine can then be labeled as a Reserve and for connoisseurs, it is Italy's most collected wine; for beginners it is a difficult one to understand.

In the past all Barolos used to be very tannic and they took more than 10 years to soften up. The fermenting wine usually stayed on the skins for at least three weeks, extracting huge amounts of tannins; then it was aged in large, wooden casks for years.


In order to meet the international taste, which preferred fruitier, more accessible styles, the "modernists" cut fermentation times to a maximum of ten days and put the wine in new French barriques. The results, according to traditionalists, were not even recognizable as Barolo and tasted more of new oak than of wine. Thus, the Barolo wars began between traditionalists and modernists.

Today, the war has subsided although outspoken modernists are still committed to new oak and there are many producers who are now choosing the middle ground, often using a combination of barriques and large casks. The more prestigious houses still reject barriques and insist on patience fo
r their wines (considering them far superior). As such, these have become auction staples, sought after by wine aficionados in Italy, Germany, Japan, Switzerland and the United States.

For those of you who are interested, here is a list of the wineries producing in the traditional methods as well as, the modernists (note from previous post on Barolo Chinato, we purchased one from Ceretto, loving the balanced flavors of that liquid luxury).Traditionalist producers include: Giuseppe Rinaldi, Marcarini, Bartolo Mascarello, Brovia, Giuseppe Mascarello, Cavallotto, Giacomo Conterno, Giacomo Borgogno, Paolo Conterno, Comm. Burlotto, Oddero, Barale, Cavallotto, Cappellano, Massolino, Bruno "the Maestro" Giacosa, Luigi Pira, Vietti (especially the Riserva Villero), Vajra.

Modernist producers include: Azelia, Scavino, Gigi Rosso, Rivetti, Ceretto, Aldo Conterno (from 1996 onwards), Boglietti, Mauro Veglio, Altare, Sandrone, Domenico Clerico, E. Pira & Figli (Chiara Boschis), Einaudi, Icardi, Parusso, Prunotto, Ceretto, Corino, Alessandria, Grimaldi, Silvio Grasso, Seghesio (Aldo e Ricardo).

Gaia was not mentioned because this ultra famous winery deserves a separate post.


July 22, 2008

Wine Country Piemontese - Definitely a Wine Frolic



A trip through the Piemontese wine country, le Lange e Roero is a sight to behold. The stops for this tour were Grinzane Cavour castle and regional wine store, Mango (hills of Moscato) and their regional wine store, Barolo and it’s regional wine shop with an off the track stop at i Vignaioli di S. Stefano and the cantine di Vallebelbo. Grinzane offers a great little self guided tour of the castle, which includes the history of Le Langhe and after that there is a cute little bar for coffee and a book, a restaurant for suggestive dinners and a super-duper wine shop!

The storekeeper was wonderful allowing us to taste (without paying) three types of Barolo Chinato, and
various grappa. Of the two Chinato, we preferred the drier one so on that note, she gave us a taste of one by Ceretto and what a great suggestion that was! Barolo Chinato is a splendid, unique digestive and dessert wine.

This little known beauty goes back close to the end of the 1800’s to the heart of the Barolo territory. The drink stems from an ancient recipe, which has been
carefully preserved through the centuries. The infusion of China Calissaya bark and several aromatic alpine herbs with aged Barolo wine has long been considered a remedy for several diseases. Aged for quite a long time in oak barrels, this aromatic wine becomes a low-alcoholic "elixir", amber-colored and with ruby-red reflections. The spicy, intense and persistent nose coupled with the bittersweet taste of the China bark make it a lovely and inviting wine. A rare specialty for connoisseurs!

Granted, Barolo Chinato debuted as a medicinal wine but quickly found popularity for reasons other
than medicinal. Production of this wine comprises a natural infusion of China Calissaja bark, rhubarb root, and about ten other aromatic herbs where the alcoholic content is deliberately kept low in order to highlight the wine’s Barolo component,Colour: Deep garnet red. Bouquet: Full, rich, heady, and opulent, exuding spices and aromatic herbs. Palate: Sweet, full-bodied, velvet-smooth, pleasantly bitterish in the finish.
Grape variety: 100% nebbiolo
Alcohol: 16.5 % vol. Residual sugar: 18% Serving temperature: 18 – 20° C.

Cesare Pavese’s book “Il Diavolo sulle Colline” was chosen to represent the wine’s magnificent sensory complexity, its power, its aromatic pleasures, as well as its profound relationship to the land from which it originated.
The Barolo base wine for the “Il Diavolo sulle Colline” Chinato is produced from grapes from the Municipalities of Castiglione Falletto, Serralunga d’Alba, and Monforte d’Alba, which yield Barolos of pronounced character and structure, to which are added others from the areas of Barolo, La Morra and Verduno, rendering wines of greater fragrance and elegance. After a 20-day, 30 degree C maceration, the wine goes into the traditional oak casks where it matures for at least two years.

There are diverse and excellent ways to serve this wine: mixed with mineral water and ice, as an aperitif; neat, as a delicate after-dinner liqueur; or warmed up and served with orange peel, becoming the ideal drink for frosty winter evenings. Barolo Chinato is a fantastic companion with chocolate desserts expressing its diversity as something more than a meditation wine. Barolo Chinato is best served in a long-stemmed wine glass.



To be continued…;-) so much more to come!

(July 21, 2008)

Rosa Solis


The other night at Antico Ristorante agli Schioppi (ski-yop-pi) she finished of
f her meal with a rosolio, never having heard of it before she let them recommend this little sweet after dinner drink. Rosolio, also known as Rosoli was originally made from the herb "sundew" (Drosera rotundifolia), or "Rosa Solis" and, it was made completely from the juice of this herb. The Sundew plant (carnivorous, Lat. Drosera rotundifolia L.) was used to make a bright yellow cordial water that was somewhat strong in alcohol content. This water seems to have originated in Renaissance Turin thought to have medicinal and aphrodisiac properties before becoming a popular drink.

The very first arrival of these waters to England in the late 1400’s, was strictly for medicinal use (as alcoholic medicinals), which were prescribed in small doses to lift the spirits and strengthen the heart. By 1700, these precursors to modern liqueurs were used for their intoxicating effects as well as supposed medicinal virtues, most of them becoming recreational drinks. Many cordial
s were made with precious ingredients such as, gold and pearls thought to renew the natural heat, recreate and revive the spirits and free the body from the bad diseases. Some of these forgotten concoctions were Royal Usquebaugh, a spicy liqueur laced with flakes of gold leaf, which actually had an origin from the Aureum potabile or drinkable gold of the alchemists. Many early varieties of “waters” were flavored with spices and herbs thought to settle the stomach after excessive eating, which lead to the name of surfeit waters.

The fact that many cordials were considered aphrodisiacs, contributed to the consumption in social settings instead of in a medical context and this is how we believe
Rosa Solis originated. This was distilled over large quantities of the sundew plant while including hot provocative spices like cubebs, grains of paradise and galingale. Supposedly, the sundew plant stirred up lust and when distilled, reflected a glittering yellow color like gold and silver rendering the whole concoction “golden” thus imparting it’s golden warmth within once ingested. During the time of Salmon, rosa solis was used in England at the end of a banquet to wash down other revered food items such as, kissing comfits and candied eryngo roots (sounds truly wicked if you ask me). Today, rosolio is produced in Italy and Spain although no longer a distillate of the sundew plant.


Today, Rosolio is a generic name for any sweet, syrupy, aromatic cordial or liqueur (with low alcohol content) frequently homemade. When rosolio is made from a fruit, the syrupy liquid is extracted then mixed with grain alcohol and in some instances, the addition of specific herbs and or spices occurs. When the drink is made from fresh red rose petals, it is usually called Rosolio di Rose. This version is red or pink in color and has an alcohol content between 22% and 24%.

Take of the hearbe Rosa-Solis, gathered in Iulie one gallon, pick out all the black moats from the leaues, dates halfe a pound, Cinamon, Ginger, Cloues of each one ounce, grains halfe an ounce, fine sugar a pound and a halfe, red rose leaues, greene or dried foure handfuls, steepe all these in a gallon of good Aqua Composita in a glasse close stopped with wax, during twenty dayes, shake it well together once euerie two dayes. Your sugar mutt be powdred, your spices brused onely or grosselie beaten, your dates cut in long slices the stones taken away. If you add two or three graines of Ambergreece, and as much muske in your glasse amongst the rest of the Ingredients , it will have a pleasant smell. Some adde the gum amber with coral and pearle finely poudred , and fine leafe golde. Some vse to boyle Ferdinando bucke in Rosewater, till they haue purchased a faire deepe crimson colour, and when the same is cold, they colour their Rosa solis and Aqua Rubea therewith.
From Sir Hugh Platt, Delightes for Ladies (London: 1600)

(July 14, 2008) 

Great Italian Bordeaux

(The mood ever since leaving the Veneto region and her favorite red wine, Venegazzù)!  (grrrrrr...)


There exists no myth about eating and drinking well in the province of Veneto; the region oozes simplicity paired with the utmost taste and elegance but then, what is to be expected from a wealthy province laden with luscious history, art and architecture? I sat back in the chair watching the passing parade, the trams, the pretty people, the locals, (and yokels) briskly walking the sidewalks (somewhere in some city in Italy) while pondering a return visit to Vicenza, just to see if the city affected me the same as the first time.


Inviting, leisurely in spirit, rich in history and unbelievable eye candy (yes, of course you are all thinking the other kind of eye candy), but this is about architecture (as my ears pick up chuckles from the readers). I found myself truly dreaming of another glass of that stupendous Venegazzù and, an afternoon on the square with a spritz and an evening dining outside with centuries before my eyes. Lord, that Venegazzù was such a luxury on the palette; paired with super, stinky aged cheese from the region, Puzzone di Moena, sliced tart green apples and limpid honey from the mountains around Asiago, life could not get any better.

This fabulous cheese is made from cow’s milk using a semi-cooked mixture. The salting of the cheese is done in a brine solution lasting two days. Starting at 15 to 20 days of age, the forms are bathed weekly with tepid water, which creates a perfect impermeable patina thus allowing the forms optimal fermentation within the milk mixture (protected by this patina). Aging occurs in cool environments with a high level of humidity where the cheese is placed on wooden shelves and turned twice weekly. The average aging is two months minimum with eight months the maximum. A nibble of this and a sip of that red and she is in serious heaven.


Venegazzù is a Bordeaux blend using 65% Cabernet Sauvignon, 20% Cabernet Franc, 10% Merlot and 5% Malbech. The origins of this wine spring from a historic vineyard called Hundred-vines with vines that are 50 years old and also in part from the Falconera vineyard. This prestigious wine is produced in Montello on the infamous iron rich soil of the area. This high mineral and iron content determines the structure of the wine as well as, bestowing it a long life. The vines are planted in a density of about 3,000 plants/hectare yielding on the average 5,800 kilos/hectare. This stunning wine ferments for about twenty days in oak fermentation tubs, (fifteen of those twenty days are on the skins) at a temperature of 25 to 30 degrees Celsius. Once the malolactic fermentation has ceased, the wine is put to rest in barrels of French oak (of different weights) for 18 to 24 months and then refined in the bottle for one year. 
Of the two versions of this lovely red liquid, is Capo di Stato I.G.T. Colli Trevigiani by Villa Spineda Loredan a Venegazzù. This supreme blend has been listed by a French publication; “100 vins de légende” or, among the hundred wines in the world for either their history and top quality can be considered legendary by all standards. This Venegazzù Capo di Stato is the first true Italian Bordeaux blend. The other one, is Venegazzù della Casa, I.G.T. Colli Trevigiani, another historic wine from Loredan Gasparini. This other important Bordeaux blend displays right out of the starting gate, true magnificence and luxury. This is made with the same grapes using the same composition as the main wine of the winery but with one big difference; the yield per hectare is higher and the aging time in the oak barrels is shorter, eighteen months or less. Nonetheless, the wine is still a perfect display of that ultra special character of the plant varieties, the rich soil where it is grown as well as, combining the distinctive personality of the Bordeaux blend. This wine presents and maintains the elegance and balance of the greatest Italian wines, which means, this creature needs to grab her car and head straight to the winery on a buying trip!

Yes, now I am smiling (once again)!


(July 4, 2008)

Cherry Soup!

Dinning at Antico Ristorante agli Schioppi, this creature just had to try the angel hair with black truffle from the mountains surrounding Vicenza (Monte Berici). I hesitated to order them not sure when black truffle season was (a fanatic about white truffles from Alba, season Oct – Jan), but had a hankering for them and thus, threw all thoughts of doubt to the wind. This dish of heaven was the best pasta I had had in such a long time in fact, my partner just about fell over telling me how outstanding the flavor of the truffle really was. This restaurant served lots of polenta with the various dishes, not in quantity but just the fact that it accompanied many of the dishes (no kidding, polenta is synonymous with Vicenza)!

They brought an antipasto of baccalà mousse with white grilled polenta that was incredible, sort of reminded her of the fish mousse served on the terrace on the lake at Isola Madre. There was the classic Vincentian veal liver with glazed onions on a bed of polenta and sauce that was worth every bite particularly for liver lovers and for those who are not (moi), it was fantastic; so sure I would have hated it, ha! Veal liver is divine; tender and light in flavor and not as dense as beef liver and definitely lacking the heady heavy liver flavor. If anyone hates the taste of beef liver, then you should give this a try just to put your taste buds right with the world. ;-)

Finishing off the meal with a dessert, which truly no one had room for, was definitely one of the smarter choices made in my life one I would not soon forget. This simple and light little offering was called “cherry soup.” These were hand-pitted local grown cherries (Marostica, and Vicenza are famous for their cherries) swimming in their own cherry juice with a dash of a secret spice topped with a tiny ball of spearmint green gelato and cherry liqueur. The soup was served cold with giant soup spoons to ensure you did not miss a drop of the luscious juice. I had visions of picking some cherries from those trees in the garden or buying some in Marostica and making up my own batch of this mix to save and serve on those hot lazy summer evenings…guess I need to figure out how they made the mint gelato; did they mash and “Cuisinart” the leaves or did they make a very concentrated tisane?A bottle of Amarone, one of the other famous wines from the Veneto region accompanied this meal and, never having tasted a good glass of it, this little angel was impressed even with 15% alcohol. After a bottle I was far from tipsy because good wine (not that cheap 2-buck Chuck) does not give you headaches, does not turn you tipsy even after a bottle and it is usually consumed over a longer period of time and slowly (slow meals, slow eating). Unfortunately, the Amarone expert will have to fill you in on the beauty of this wine, this is truly out of Snow White’s league

July 21, 2008

Food Frolicking & Travel at Singing Nella's - Wine Country Barolo

La Cantinella (Canti – Nella i.e., singing Nella) was the Osteria just across the way from the old café behind and below the Barolo castle. This fun little place allowed the option of eating inside with AC or outside in the heat but in the shade of the buildings above the restaurant as well as their huge umbrellas.Seated outside my eyes roamed from the bright yellow-orange of the Marchesi di Barolo cellars to the wine-covered hills above the Barolo Castle and the barren parking lot in front. Melting in the heat but reveling in the scenery my mind floated from the suggestions of modern times to visions of the past. In some ways things have changed so much yet when immersed in these towns, one sees how little life really has changed, at least here drifting between the vineyards. ;-)

Lunch offered typical Piedmont dishes such as, raw hand cut and pounded Piemontese beef as an appetizer (do not shy away from this, raw meat is excellent for the body). A plate of mixed appetizers proposed Russian salad, raw meat, zucchini frittata with fondue alla Piemontese (the original fondue from Val D’Osta) and, bagna cauda, which was a big slice of blanched red pepper with green garlic sauce floating inside. Bagna cauda is famous in this region and the sauce is something you want to be sure to eat with your partner that is,  if you are going home with your dinner partner because the garlic breath could kill a horse (laughing, think I killed him)!The sauce is made from mashed garlic, lots of it, anchovies and olive oil (of course); the whole mix heated over a double boiler or at times served over a candle with raw veggies or served as it was that day on the pepper slices although not raw but just blanched. Now, about the fondue, well that is another thing in and of itself! 

This original fondue is prepared with Fontina, eggs, butter and milk and is a dense liquid (the cheese soaks in the milk for at least 8 hours if not longer). The milk is then tossed out and the cheese is melted with fresh milk and a ton of butter and once it begins to thicken, an egg yolk or two is tossed in. Of course, this is best consumed with white truffles but hey, eating it by the spoonfuls is still a thrill and in the winter, this is a dish that outshines any cold day! So, while you all are putting kirsch in your fondue, just know that until you have tried the original here in northern Italy, you are missing out. ;-)

The rest of the meal consisted of agnolotti in butter and sage and risotto al Barolo, which is truly a local dish (just onions and wine)! They also served fresh homemade hot bread infused with tons of oregano in a bread loaf form as well as a focaccia. Well that just shot my goal of limiting the bread intake that day, totally went to the dogs! In that heat, no wine was ordered with lunch but then again, with all the little wine tasting who needed it (giggling)? To finish off the meal, a stop at the Antico Panettiere furnished a bag of local cookies or little fragile flat hazelnut “pancakes.” These contain the locally grown Piemontese hazelnuts and nice soft Amaretti cookies as well. ;-)How can I emphasize enough the depth excitement and smiles this area can produce? To breathe-in this wine country one realizes this is not just about wine but about the substantial amount of history surrounding these great wines through the centuries. The vast amount of neat, well-cured vineyards will tantalize the dreams and emotions of any countryside lover; an unadulterated lullaby for all the senses. These hills undulate with history and passion at every turn and everywhere the eye might rest; one cannot help but get caught up in the spell. Speaking of spells, dinner at the Grinzane Cavour Castle is worth a separate post. To be continued…. ;-)